CHAPTER I . JEWELLERY
Rajasthani lac bangles:
believed to bring good premonition to those who wear them!
The Rajasthani marriage rituals require specific traditional ornaments and different festivals have different ensembles related to them. In fact, each celebration can be identified with a distinct style of bangle design.
The Gulali Choodha - the red coloured bangles and the Hare Bandon Ka Choodha - the green coloured ones, are used for weddings; the pink bangles are worn exclusively during Holi festival.
Bangles are always used in pairs, one in each arm. Women usually carry more than one pair of bangles, to which they add other pairs of other styles, but always an even number.
A MATERIAL TAKEN FROM INSECT RESIN
Crimson red, plant sucking, tiny insects such as Laccifer Lacca, Carteria Llacca and Tachardia Lacca colonize the branches of selected species of host trees and secrete a natural scarlet resin known as Lac.
The different layers of resin residue on the branches of the host trees are scraped off, crushed, sieved and washed several times to remove impurities. This Lac, is further heated so that the impurities settle down and can be removed easily.
To this molten Lac, which is originally brick red in color, the bangle makers add wax (to increase the cohesiveness), titanium (to increase the volume) and sometimes coloring agents.
The process of making lac jewellery is complex and requires great precision. Glass beads, flower shaped mirrors and decorative wire are also used for the enhancement of the items beauty.
Lac bangles consist of an inner-core that has a covering of thin layer of superior quality lac. Core lac, when mixed with a similar material to white clay, strengthens the bangle. The heating, mixing, kneading, and hammer pounding of the parched ingredients takes place repeatedly and dough like mass is formed.
Once this mass is heated, it's shaped and the expansion of the lac takes place - this results in the bangle thickening. Further, a flat-shaped tool is used to roll the bangle across the flat surface, giving it a proper thickness. The shaping is done by suppressing the length of lac into coloured grooves on every side of the mold, then the lac takes the groove shape into which it is forced. The lac pieces are then kept aside for drying.
The jewelleries are embellished, usually by the women members of the family, with beads, mirrors, pearls and semi-precious stones - picked up one at a time and stuck on the lac piece.